Misla

Over-door hook, made to measure

Measure the thickness of your door at the top and choose how far down you want the hook, and we will cut a hook that sits over the door with no screws: a thin strap runs across the top, a leg runs down the far side, and the near side drops to an open hook. The slot is drawn to your door with a little clearance, and it prints lying on its side with no supports.

Over-door hook, made to measure
Rendered at our default measurements — yours comes out to your numbers.
What you need before you start

What it will take

  • Door thickness: 15–60 mm
  • How far down the hook sits: 20–300 mm
  • Hook opening: 8–60 mm
  • Hook width: 10–60 mm
  • Nozzle size: 4 to choose from
  • Filament: 4 to choose from

As it comes

Slot over the door41 mm
Stands out from the door28 mm
Tip below the top of the door68 mm
Filament, at most (printed solid)18 g

Build plate: 87 mm as it comes, never more than 256 mm.

What you need to hand

  • A calliper for the thickness of your door, across its top edge.
  • A ruler to decide how far down the door you want the hook.
  • A look at the gap between the top of the door and the frame: the strap that runs through it is 2.4 mm thick.
  • Your nozzle size and the filament you will print it in.

The part, drawn to your numbers

73 mm86.4 mm20 mm · 1:2
From above, as it prints — lying on its side: the door goes in the slot at the top, the hook at the bottom right

Drawn from the numbers in the form below, off the same geometry the file is cut from. It is not a photograph, and there is no photograph — every part that leaves here is a different size.

Your door

Measure across the top edge of the door with a calliper, at the spot where the hook will sit.

mm
Measure across the top edge of the door with a calliper, where the hook will sit. A door is not necessarily the same thickness all along, so measure at that spot.
The hook

How far down the door the hook sits, how wide its opening is, and how wide the hook is along the top of the door.

mm
From the top of the door down to the bottom of the hook, where things hang.
mm
The gap between the door side of the hook and its tip: what you hang has to pass through it. The tip rises 10 mm, or six tenths of the opening if that is more.
mm
How wide the hook is, along the top of the door.
The printer it will come off

Set these to the nozzle you will print with and the filament you will use; what is filled in is only our usual setting. The nozzle decides whether the walls come out the thickness we drew. The filament does not change the model: it only sets the weight estimate.

The nozzle you will print with. It does not change the model — it decides whether the walls come out the thickness we drew.
Sets the weight estimate. It does not change the model.
Finer adjustments
mm
How far the back leg runs down the far side of the door, from the top. Keep it clear of anything on that face, such as a closer arm or a stop.
mm
How much wider than the door we draw the slot. Looser goes on more easily, but the hook rocks more on the door.

More for around the home

  1. Toothbrush holder

    A row of round sockets for toothbrushes, sized from the widest handle you measure.

    What you need A calliper for the widest toothbrush handle.

    Try your numbers

  2. Wall holder for a remote control

    A pocket on the wall that a remote control drops into, cut to the width and thickness of your remote and hung on two screws.

    What you need A calliper for the width and thickness of your remote and for the screws you will hang it on.

    Try your numbers

  3. Door wedge

    A wedge for under a door, cut to the gap between your door and the floor.

    What you need A ruler for the gap between the floor and the bottom of your door.

    Try your numbers

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