Misla

Cable grommet for the lid, made to measure

Measure the hole in your lid, how thick the lid is and the cables or tubes that go through it, and we will cut a plug for that hole. It drops into the hole with its rim on top of the lid, and each cable has its own channel with a slit to the edge, so it goes in from the side — the plug on the end of the cable never has to pass through. It prints rim down, with no supports.

Cable grommet for the lid, made to measure
Rendered at our default measurements — yours comes out to your numbers.
What you need before you start

What it will take

  • Hole in the lid: 10–60 mm
  • Lid thickness: 2–12 mm
  • Cable diameter: 2–10 mm
  • Number of cables: 4 to choose from
  • Nozzle size: 4 to choose from
  • Filament: 4 to choose from

As it comes

Plug, across24.6 mm
Rim on the lid, across33 mm
Each channel, across5.4 mm
Filament, at most (printed solid)4 g

Build plate: 33 mm as it comes, never more than 256 mm.

What you need to hand

  • A calliper across the hole in the lid.
  • A calliper for how thick the lid is at the edge of the hole.
  • A calliper across the thickest cable or tube that goes through, and how many there are, from one to four.
  • Your nozzle size and the filament you will print it in.
Your lid

Across the hole, and how thick the lid is at its edge.

mm
Across the hole in the lid, measured with a calliper. The plug is drawn to drop into it, and its rim sits on top of the lid round the hole.
mm
How thick the lid is at the edge of the hole. The part that goes into the hole is this long.
Your cables

Across the outside of the thickest cable or tube that goes through, and how many there are.

mm
Across the outside of the cables or tubes that go through, measured with a calliper. If they differ, measure the thickest. Each channel is sized from this.
How many cables or tubes go through the hole, one per channel.
The printer it will come off

Set these to the nozzle you will print with and the filament you will use; what is filled in is only our usual setting, not necessarily yours. The nozzle decides whether the walls come out at least two lines thick. The filament does not change the model: it sets the weight estimate and flags PLA, which is for a dry fit only.

The nozzle you will print with. It does not change the model — it decides whether the walls come out at least two lines thick.
Sets the weight estimate, and flags PLA, which is for a dry fit only. It does not change the model.
Finer adjustments
mm
How much narrower than the hole the plug is drawn. Looser drops in more easily and moves about more.
mm
How much wider than the cable each channel is drawn. Looser lets the cable slide through more freely.

More for your tank

  1. Filter intake guard

    A snail-proof box guard for a rear filter intake, cut to the opening you measured.

    What you need A tape or steel rule for the width and height of the opening in the divider glass, and where in the glass it sits.

    Try your numbers

  2. Filter outlet diffuser

    A quiet, snail-proof outlet for a rear filter, cut to your hose and your corner.

    What you need A calliper for the outside of the hose, and the clear space between the hose and the side glass.

    Try your numbers

  3. Floating-plant corner barrier

    A corner pen for duckweed and other floating plants, cut to your glass and your water line to help keep them in one part of the surface.

    What you need A calliper for the glass at its top edge, and a ruler for the drop from there to the water.

    Try your numbers

See all 10 in Aquarium

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