Misla

Hose reducer, made to measure

Measure the inside of each of your two hoses with a calliper — the one off the filter or pump and the one you want to run on — and we will draw a straight adapter that goes into both. Each end is a barbed spigot the size of its hose, with a collar in the middle where the hoses stop. Same size both ends, and you get a straight joiner.

Hose reducer, made to measure
Rendered at our default measurements — yours comes out to your numbers.
What you need before you start

What it will take

  • Inside diameter of the first hose: 4–32 mm
  • Inside diameter of the second hose: 4–32 mm
  • Length of the first spigot: 8–40 mm
  • Length of the second spigot: 8–40 mm
  • Nozzle size: 5 to choose from
  • Filament: 4 to choose from

As it comes

First spigot, between the barbs16 mm
Second spigot, between the barbs12 mm
Bore through the second spigot7.9 mm
Length overall42.0 mm

Build plate: 22 mm as it comes, never more than 256 mm.

What you need to hand

  • A calliper for the inside diameter of each hose, at the cut end.
  • How far each hose should go onto the adapter.
  • Your nozzle size and the filament you will print it in.

The part, drawn to your numbers

21.9 mm42 mm5 mm · 1:1
From the side, as it prints — the larger spigot on the plate

Drawn from the numbers in the form below, off the same geometry the file is cut from. It is not a photograph, and there is no photograph — every part that leaves here is a different size.

Your two hoses

The inside diameter of each, measured at the cut end with a calliper, without squeezing. The adapter goes into both.

mm
Measure across the inside of the hose's cut end with the jaws of a calliper, without squeezing it, in two directions at right angles, and give the smaller figure. One end of the adapter goes into this hose.
mm
The same for the other hose. If both are the same, you get a straight joiner.
The spigots

How far each hose goes on before it meets the collar. Longer takes more barbs.

mm
How far the first hose goes onto the adapter, up to the collar in the middle. Longer takes more barbs.
mm
The same for the second hose.
The printer it will come off

Set these to the nozzle you will print with and the filament you will use; what is filled in is only our usual setting. The nozzle decides whether the walls come out the thickness we drew. The filament does not change the model; it flags PLA, which is for a dry fit only.

The nozzle you will print with. It does not change the model — it decides whether the walls come out the thickness we drew.
Flags PLA, which is for a dry fit only. It does not change the model.

More for your tank

  1. Filter outlet diffuser

    A quiet, snail-proof outlet for a rear filter, cut to your hose and your corner.

    What you need A calliper for the outside of the hose, and the clear space between the hose and the side glass.

    Try your numbers

  2. Airline holder for the glass

    A holder that slides over the edge of your glass and keeps one to three airlines upright down the inside, cut to your glass and your tubing.

    What you need A calliper for the glass and the outside of your airline tubing.

    Try your numbers

  3. Filter intake guard

    A snail-proof box guard for a rear filter intake, cut to the opening you measured.

    What you need A tape or steel rule for the width and height of the opening in the divider glass, and where in the glass it sits.

    Try your numbers

Similar parts: Hose and airline

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